Author by : Phyllis Coletta

There is no better way to describe a true “adventure vacation” than by reading the journal of one who took the journehy. In the following excerpt, Amy Finger – a geologist and mountain guide – describes a wild and exhilarating horse pack trip into Mexico’s Copper Canyon. Can you see yourself dancing in the small village with the natives, or drinking Marguerites in camp at sunset? Read on, and find out how to put yourself in Amy’s place:

“The horse trip went so well that I’m still floating on it. We just got back last
night after flying home in our friend’s small plane from El Paso. The group was exceptional. All were looking for a good adventure and that’s what we gave
them. The trip live up to its description: “Following seldom used rugged trails, we travel through some of the wildest terrain on earth. Mexico’s living old west… a wild, crazy adventure…” Boy, was it ever.

Day 1-We took the rim ride south and west over the high mesa there then down and back north to the trail under the Mansion in the Urique Canyon side that goes to the Tarahumara cave under the Mirador (the fancy pink hotel). We actually rode the horses up all those steps that lead up and out at the Mirador Hotel! Then we tied up and went to their exclusive bar and had Margaritas (in our chaps and spurs and cowboy hats). It was a lot of fun and the horses proved to be responsive and bombproof. Everyone liked their horse which was really something seeing as we had some very experienced riders who owned their own quarter horses and had ridden all over the States. Guiermo brought a strong, pretty red mare of his uncle’s named Alasan for our friend Robert (225 lbs experienced rider) and she was dynamite.

Day 2-Everywhere we went we ran into the Mancinas sisters and brothers. First they
met Gero and Teresa in Cuauhtemoc, then Lola at Arepo at the Lodge, then Poncho and
Beto showed up to help clean the tar off the newly painted van that we got on the
freshly tarred highway, and then MariCruz was in the Mirador hotel, as manager,
giving Gary and I freebies. The next day out on the expedition we had to visit the
Padres, Concepcion and Lencho and get a tour of the house that spawned all these
Mancinas. And of course, cousin Jilo joined in with the burros. The group got a full
dose of the local Mexican family and they really appreciated the fact that so many of
them were benefiting from the trip (we used one of Lencho/Gero’s horse’s, Milagro,
after all which Guiermo rode). I had Coyota, the little brown mare Guiermo rode last
week and Gary had Pando the stallion as the horse had to be in the front or he would
be too antsy (a perfect match for Gary).

Pockets loaded with apples and peaches from Lencho’s orchard we took off on the same
route down to Manzano following Gero walking, swinging his machete and clearing
trail. Guiermo had hired a man named Alejandro as his assistant who rode a black
macho mule. He was very personable and an expert rider. The group got their first dose of rough country right away and it took a little getting used to. I rode everything and
encouraged them to do so and showed them how. They loved it and their surefooted
ponies. We bypassed Mansano and continued down past the Tarahumara house, up the
hill, over to the pass and down into the Chuachique which we dubbed Mushroom Valley
for all the stone pinnacles. We had lunch where the trail turned bad. By this time
they were riding over everything with confidence. It took 3 hours. Then it only took
an hour or so to return to Manzano for the night. When we arrived Jilo had the camp
perfectly set and organized. He was proud of himself and it really was a great camp.
The rock spires that surround his family’s homestead glowed in the slanting light
above the dark pines and it seemed even more beautiful then when we saw it the week
before.

Day 3-In the morning we awoke to the call of the Eared Trogan. The two women clients
were both birders and one (Andrea) spoke Spanish. Gero told them which call was the
Trogan and they followed the sound to its source and were rewarded with the sighting
of two trogans in the trees in the side valley north from camp. Over chilequiles for breakfast we talked about how rare it was to see them and then packed up and headed
off for new territory. The cross over trail to Batochique began half way up the hill
past the Tarahumara house and wound up and down on a rideable trail that was just
beautiful. It took an hour and a half and we came out at the upper cabins of the
Rancho Batochique. We were able to ride through the valley and we stopped for a snack
at the rock art. Gary thought most of it was modern Tarahumara maybe inspired by
some pre-existing Mogollon figures. The trail is really quite trecherous down from
there. It is cliff edges and steep crap and we all walked leading our horses. The
exciting moment came when Alejandro’s mule who was loaded with a bag of corn cobs for feed for the night slipped down around his legs causing him to spook and run crazily
trying to rid himself of the dangling bag. At first I was just afraid for the safety
of the mule as I saw him run along the edge below us and up to a crest, then when he
realized he couldn’t get over it he did a 180 and ran back on our level straight
through the riders. I yelled, “Get out of the way!!” I thought for sure someone was
going to get hurt. But good ol’ Caseta (Carl’s horse) stood in his way and he
stopped, breathing hard while the guys caught him. All the horses were totally calm.
He got dubbed the loco mula. Alejandro could ride this beast on every inch of the
trail while we walked which just confirmed his insanity as the trip went on.

We arrived at the river camp, Arenales, just an hour or so later- in time for the
afternoon sunshine to still be on the river. Everyone changed into bathing clothes
and some even swam. I sent them upstream but later discovered the really good pools
are all downstream. We had a late lunch and then I took a hike with the birders
upriver to the confluence of the Chuachique and beyond. It took about 45 minutes and
Gary and I were able to stay in touch on the radios with him in camp the whole way.
We had to turn around before we saw the Capulin trees as it was going to get dark.

Day 4- The Great Cross Over Trail. We noticed the night before that the trail had
been repaired right there in camp and realized that Lupe, the district Tarahumara
governor, had come through as promised with his trail clearing crew. It was a nice
job and they even marked the way with carefully placed cairns and branches that
blocked the wrong route. We were able to ride for a long ways beside the river and
then when it went seriously up we had to dismount and walk. It was a hard,
challenging hike with horses having to leap up rough spots behind you. The group did
very well and I think found it exhilarating. We got back on after looking at the view
point but had to get off again to gain the rest of altitude until the point the trail
levels off heading for Orachique Canyon. From here on we were able to ride the whole
way. We had not been on the correct trail on the recon and this although not too far
away was a major trail. Thanks to the cairns we figured it out and it took us down
into the valley below Siquirichi, the Tarahumara Rancho, by a corn storage log
building. It took 3 hours from Arenales.

Guadalupe was waiting for us and greeted us coming into the Rancho. Everyone was
awe inspired by the setting, with thousand foot cliffs surrounding the houses and
Church on their raised dais above the corn fields, it really is something special.
Slowly Lupe’s 16 year old beautiful daughter emerged with his wife and son. They have
a young baby as well. After awhile someone rolled out the wheelbarrow with sodas!
Lupe eventually asked if we wanted the matachine and pascual dancers and we arranged
for a fiesta at 4-5pm after our afternoon ride out to the view point. He told me his
mother lived out there. The ride was outstanding (just 30 minutes). We arrived to a
couple of log/adobe cabins perched out on the ridge with an unbelievable view of the
Oteros Canyon both up and down river. Lupe’s mother and sister were sitting outside
grinding corn. She looks ancient. We shook hands Tarahumara style but Lupe’s comment
when we returned is that she doesn’t talk. His sister was friendly and smiling. We
could see from the map that the trail then descends steeply to the river and
supposedly makes its way up the next valley over to San Rafael. A shorter well used
route to San Rafael (not on the map) heads out right above Siquiriche.

We returned to the Rancho and eventually the kids and neighbors gathered, put on wood
helmets with streaming colored strips of cloth, and proceeded to dance the matachine.
Lupe played guitar and an old man played violin. Lupe’s wife had two other violins and
several baskets for sale beside them. All took place at the Church of course. The
dance began inside and then came out to the front flat spot where we all had our
spectator stools. The group ate it up and took a million pictures. It was a very
simple dance that did not change from dance to dance. The pascual was slightly
different without the helmets and with the 16 year old leading wearing the ankle seed
pods. Between dances the group bought all the baskets and a violin from Lupe’s wife
and everyone was very pleased. I also paid 200 pesos to Lupe for the dances, 60 pesos
for firewood and 250 for the trail clearing. Our visit was definitely a major
financial event for the Rancho and there were lots of smiles.

The last day up the Recayna is absolutely stunning and rideable the whole way. The
group was saying it was the best horse trip they had ever taken. It is 3 hours up to
Guiermo’s allowing time to explore the Mogollon cliff dwelling caves and another hour
and half up to Lola’s.

Our last night at Lola’s was a great party complete with a local character named
Felipe playing guitar and singing. He lived in LA for many years and has quite a
reperatoire. I recommend him highly. We had margaritas we shared with the guys. No
one got drunk and they all danced including Rudi! It was a great time. We ended the
trip with a last night in Chihuahua City after picking Jaime up in Creel because
everyone wanted to buy tack. We’ve decided that a stop in Creel and ending in
Cuauhtemoc is the way to go. It’s just too much driving and traffic in the big city.
However, we made it out and the crowning star on a great trip was we went through the
Santa Teresa border crossing and we were the only car and didn’t even have to pull
over to be checked!! The only way to go. I am still on Cloud Nine.”

Amy Finger and Gary Ziegler run horse pack and trekking trips in Peru and Mexico. The Peru trip includes a marvelous twelve day hike or horse/ride to Machu Picchu via little used parts of the Inca Trail. This is adventure travel as it’s meant to be – no crowds or traffic, guided by a geologist (Amy) and a world renowned archaeologist and expert on Peru (Gary). They’re also down to earth and real fun folks. No better way to see the world than from the back of a horse, or on your own sturdy two feet. Take a look at what’s available through Mountain Spirit Adventures.

[tags]adventure travel, Mexico, adventure, horseback riding, trekking, hiking, Copper Canyon[/tags]

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